Critic & Blogger Review Roundup March 2017

John Walsh

Honey and Smoke

Honey & Smoke
Image source: The Times

John Walsh of The Times heads to Honey & Smoke in Islington where he finds ‘Levantine food reinvented with originality and drama, a sexy kick of burning charcoal and a touch of Jerusalem back streets.’ Baba ghanoush is ‘light and wonderfully smoky,’ chickpeas slow-cooked with pepper and garlic sauce are ‘softly gasp-inducing,’ and a pudding of warm chestnut cake with salt caramel is like ‘a treacly Werther’s Original treat.’

Grace Dent

Hai Cenato

Hai Cenato
Image source: Evening Standard

Grace Dent enjoys both the music and the food at Jason Atherton’s Hai Cenato. Against a backdrop of ‘Nineties family-friendly hip-hop,’ a small plate of grilled octopus, Cornish squid and braised lentils is ‘possibly one of the best things on the menu,’ whilst a a salted caramel gelato is ‘outstanding.’

Giles Coren

Bao Fitzrovia

Bao Fitrzovia

Giles Coren tries out both Launceston Place and the new Bao Fitzrovia. Whilst ‘none of the dishes worked,’ at Launceston Place, the beef short-rib bao at Bao Fitzrovia ‘is all you ever need to eat for the rest of your life.’

Fay Maschler


Image source: Evening Standard

Fay Maschler finds Palatino ‘an ideal neighbourhood restaurant.’ nocchi alla Romana ‘impresses with its pillowy lightness,’tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Tellicherry pepper and pecorino is ‘exemplary,’ and the wine list is ‘as admirably modestly priced as the food.’

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating recently:

About Chris Tilsed

After stints in Brighton and France, Chris returned to his native London and its restaurant scene. Bringing back a love of French cuisine, Brasserie Zédel and Bleeding Heart are amongst his current favourites. When he's not eating food or writing about it, Chris can usually be found playing or listening to music.

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