Hand in E20 is Grace Dent’s ‘dream destination for a day off’ on account of its ‘changeable feast of Palestinian, Greek and earthy British meze’. Formerly of E5 Bakehouse, Despina Siahuli serves up ‘excellent’ split lentil soups, spanakopita (‘fat twists of moist filo’), and Hill & Szrok pork sausage rolls that are ‘often the very first thing [she thinks] of on a Saturday morning’.
Marina O’Loughlin heads to the recently refurbed Swan, where ‘critically acclaimed’ Allan Pickett is found at the helm. Pea & shallot tortellini is a ‘a hefty, satisfying bruiser’, while roast hake is ‘perfectly pearlescent and squeaky-fresh’ and rhubarb crumble tart ‘years more sophisticated than its humble billing’.
Radici in Islington is summed up by Jay Rayner as ‘rustic for city people… who don’t do countryside’, with the kitchen manned by Francesco Mazzei (whose cooking he finds ‘always right and always encouraging’). To ‘not order Mazzei’s zucchini fritti’ makes you an ‘idiot’, and his pick of the dessert menu is ‘a proper syrup-drenched rum baba flavoured with bergamot’. All plates ‘[go] back empty’.
Kiln in Soho is summed up as ‘small but exciting’ by John Walsh in The Times. Cooked without gas or electricity, Kiln serves up slow-grilled chicken thigh slicked with soy (that he ‘could have had several helpings of’), ‘richly meaty’ hogget skewers, and a short-rib Burmese curry ‘promised a cornucopia of flavours but didn’t quite deliver’.
Garnering glowing reviews from critics of late, The Game Bird gets 4 stars from Michael Deacon in The Telegraph. The signature roast pigeon (complete with a hip flask of slow gin for drizzling) is ‘plump, tender, slightly earthy’, while Dover sole is ‘soft and sleek and supple’, and pistachio soufflé with white chocolate ice cream was a ‘gorgeous, shivering collision between hot and cold’.
Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating recently:
— Eppie (@EppieShepherd) May 19, 2017
— A Y U S H I (@FoodieDiaries) May 19, 2017
— Angie Silver (@SilverSpoonLDN) May 18, 2017
— Cake + Whisky (@cakeandwhisky) May 16, 2017