Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 15th January 2016

Chicken, beef, and cheese & pineapple on sticks were the main-focus foodstuffs for the critics this week. Find out what they loved (a lot) and what they loathed (not much) from this week’s mealtime musings.

Marina O’Loughlin


Pachamama, image source Pachamama London

The Young British Foodies have a ‘talent for star-spotting’ according to Marina O’Loughlin, and their 2015 Best Chef winner Adam Rawson, of Pachamama, serves up a lunch that has them exclaiming ‘Wow. Oh wow’. Brown crab and yucca churros are ‘so gorgeous [she orders] them on both visits’, caramelised aubergine and fried plantain in a ‘mulch’ of black olive and feta leave O’Loughlin’s veggie friend ‘blissed out’.

Tom Parker Bowles



Tom Parker Bowles finds Sartoria on suit-laden Savile Row ‘a perfect fit’. Though the dining room ‘won’t win any design awards’ is filled with the ‘hum and hubbub of very happy eaters’, where he feasts on ‘soft and blushingly seductive’ scallops, ‘great, fat’ tortelli pillows and ‘magnificent’ ice cream.

Tracey Macleod


Reys, image source The Independent

‘Posh chicken shop’ Reys is a brand-new pilot site in Cambridge, visited by Tracey Macleod. Despite ‘[messing] up’ avocado on toast and serving a ‘nightmare’ barbecue sauce, the mainstay, chicken, is ‘tender and full-flavoured, the skin crisp’. Gravy is ‘the real deal’ and Asian slaw ‘decent’.

Jay Rayner


Zelman Meats, image source Katherine Anne Rose for The Observer

Jay Rayner ‘[gets] lunch the way the Sahara gets sun’ at Zelman Meats in Soho: the eponymously-named restaurant from Misha Zelman (the man behind Goodman and Burger & Lobster). Beef is ‘the pink of a taffeta ballgown’, triple-cooked chips with parmesan and truffle ‘are worth the £8 price tag’, and the one dessert is a ‘doozy’: a ‘proper slab’ of apple pie.

Grace Dent

coin laundry

Coin Laundry, image source Evening Standard

Hotly-anticipated 70s-themed restaurant Coin Laundry is ‘cheapish and definitely cheerful’, according to Grace Dent. As well as pinball tables, board games and complimentary chewing gum, Coin Laundry serves up ‘jolly decent garlic-stuffed Kievs’, moreish cheese (‘breaded and deep-fried’) & pineapple (in subtle jelly form) on sticks, and ‘excellent’ Black Forest trifle.

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating out recently:


About Emma Starkie

Originally from Cumbria, Emma is always on the lookout for exciting new places to eat in London. Topping Emma's rankings at present are Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, Foxlow and Galvin La Chapelle. In her spare time, Emma enjoys trawling old bookshops, baking, and losing at pub quizzes.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

* Please enter your comment

* Please enter your name