The Wellington Club – a review

Jermyn Street is home to quintessential British artistry and craftmanship right in the heart of Piccadilly. Quite a fitting home for The Wellington Club, which boasts similar qualities itself. Finding The Wellington Club at first proves to be challenging, and you’ll have to go on using the good old address rather than rely on any shouty signs. It has a simple, white stone frontage which, given this belies the creativity below, acts as a visual palate cleanser.

Step down into the Mayfair basement and you’ll discover an interior that is entirely fitting for all its functions, striking the delicate balance between restaurant, bar and club. With their interior, The Wellington Club have called in no-other than Turner-prize winner Damien Hirst to add some flavour to the space. Hirst’s input includes the spray-paint designs on the walls – I fact-checked by watching a video of him doing so – and there’s a genuine replica of his skull above the bar. This mirror-embellished skull rotates like an unconventional disco ball, proving it’s not style over substance.

The artistry does not stop with the Wellington Club’s interior – they’ve embodied the principles of craftmanship and design within the food and drink as well. Sitting at the bar, the mixologist served us his personal creation the ‘White Scarlets’, a gin-based cocktail with egg-white & raspberry liqueur. I’m a seemingly rare person who knows sense and doesn’t like gin, but the mixologist was quick to demonstrate his White Scarlet works just as well with vodka. The White Scarlet is tangy and smooth, making it a great start to the evening.

Following these, we tried the Jermyn Street Punch – a drink akin to a strawberry daquiri – and the Simona 92. The Simona 92 was a smooth concoction championing lemongrass and gin flavours.

Whilst sipping these bespoke cocktails, we perused the menu. Aside from an extensive list of cuts of steak, The Wellington Lounge’s menu is focused and short, winning my trust as a restaurant that tries too much is seldom good. Their menu showcases brilliant pairings; who’d have thought a sweetcorn puree & dried ham would make perfect accompaniments for the sizeable scallops my partner enjoyed?

As for me, I began eating with the cauliflower. This humble brassica is certainly becoming the in-vogue vegetable of 2019 and the Wellington Club demonstrate why. The smokiness of the chargrilled cauliflower was paired with the sweetness and tang of sultanas & confit tomatoes.

Proceeding this, we ordered Picpoul De Pinet from one of the impeccably groomed waiters, to accompany our main courses. The monkfish for my partner and the ‘Taste of Asparagus’ for me. For anyone who loves asparagus as much as me and even those who don’t, the asparagus was something else. The Wellington club take their dish to the next level, by having not 1, not 2, but asparagus 3 ways. There was green asparagus cooked, green asparagus raw and white asparagus. Baby leaves were scattered over it, while dots of tomato fondue elegantly framed the dish and it was finished with shavings of truffle. Vegetarians are clearly not an afterthought at The Wellington Club.

While I savoured the asparagus, my boyfriend tucked into the monkfish. The white fish was perched atop a bed of celeriac and sautéed spinach. The monkfish was complemented with a chicken jus and finished with crispy bacon. Here, they’ve hit gold as pairing their fish & seafood with hints of meat simply enhances the fresh flavours from the sea.

Post-dinner, The Wellington Lounge’s offerings range from the helpful digestifs or sweeter cocktails to finish your meal. We chose the Rouge Crusta & a Pina Colada to accompany the spectacularly creative desserts. A tiramisu choux bun, oozed with lightly coffee-flavoured mousse, complete with a rich espresso truffle and balanced with the lightness of a mascarpone cremeux.

Meanwhile accompanying a rich chocolate ganache was a peanut butter mousse that tasted like what every other peanut butter is aspiring to be. Finished with pieces of honeycomb, this was the ultimate indulgent dish.

After desserts, we stepped down another level into the club part of the Wellington Club. Having had our taste buds pleased all evening, it was time to make our ears happy as the DJ spun the finest in disco and house music whilst sipping a margarita.

The craftmanship & curation that goes in to The Wellington Club’s food, drinks and atmosphere is faultless, making them a worthy resident of Jermyn Street. If that’s your bag then pick and choose which elements you want to indulge in or opt for an all-encompassing evening such as myself; they work as good individually as they do paired together.

The Wellington Club

91 Jerymn St, London, London, SW1Y 6JB

About Lucy Rowe

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

* Please enter your comment

* Please enter your name