This article is written by our guest author Zeren Wilson.
From two of the most consummate professionals in the restaurant world, Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, The Delaunay eases its way into town. Having run one of London’s swishest venues, The Wolseley, to great acclaim since 2003, this peerless double-act waited patiently for the right site to expand their empire. What a gorgeous space it is too.
The room has a “Shock and Awe” quality – it’s beautiful, sweeping away into the far distance where an antique Parisien clock holds sway and surveys the scene. Designed by the David Collins studio, the clever cats behind The Wolseley, the room has a gravitas and class emanating from the dark wood panelling, a restaurant to make you feel like a bona fide grown-up.
The menu sprawls confidently across the page, taking inspiration from the grand cafés of Vienna, Budapest and Zurich, with Schnitzel’s and Choucroute nestling beside Wiener’s (Frankfurter and Berner Würstel sausages), classics of Steak Tartare and Calf’s Liver and Bacon beside Tarte Flambée and Ghoulash. Kedgeree makes an appearance too, the historic smoked fish, rice, and curry spiced dish, giving us a glimpse into the days of the British Raj.
Breakfast is a big draw, as it is at big brother The Wolseley, one of the most civilised ways to have breakfast in London. Unimpeachable Eggs Benedict, pristine pastries from their Viennoiserie pastry kitchen, and Croque Monsieur which has an almost preternatural pillowy quality, all ensure that breakfast is given the care and attention to detail that marks this out as one of the classiest joints around. An outrageously sized Banana Split is of particular note from the desserts, a cute nod to a pudding we don’t get a chance to enjoy these days in a climate of fancy pants fine dining.
Huge choice on the 100% European wine list offers everything by the glass and carafe, so experimentation may see you discover the excellent Mosel Riesling from Sybille Kuntz in Germany, or the delicate Pinot Noir from Alois Lageder in Alto Adige, Northern Italy. It’s a list that opens its arms, drawing in the eager amateur, while offering plenty of interest for us wine nerds out there with a short Reserve list of carefully chosen gems.
The Delaunay, Bar
Staff are nothing less than impeccable and are clearly enjoying being part of one of the most tightly run restaurants in London, having gone through one of the most rigorous training programmes around.
There’s a quiet confidence about the place that is the result of having run restaurants at the top level, for a long time. Corbin and King may have done this all before, but there’s still the excitement in their eyes as they talk about their new baby. Both have been spending plenty of time at The Delaunay, checking, observing, working. “We’re still tweaking”, admits Jeremy.
If there are still things to be tweaked, it’s only the doting fathers who can see the imperfections. From the outside, it looks and feels as if The Delaunay has been around forever.