Review: Riverside Grill, Battersea

The iconic towers of Battersea Power Station continue to fall as work goes on in the area’s most famous location. This project is seen by some as a metaphor for the area itself, about to be transformed as the construction cash rolls in. This would be to miss a point though. Battersea is as vibrant as ever, as a recent trip to the Riverside Grill at the Crowne Plaza hotel reminded us. With a riverside view located next to a helipad (which I assume is a handy commuter spot for new Battersea residents), the restaurant is a great place to unwind and try some tasty treats.


Breaded prawns

After a quick drink at the bar, we sat down to some breaded prawns with spicy ketchup, aioli and a balsamic dressing – a cheeky hors d’oeuvre whilst we cast our eyes over the menu.


Chicken liver parfait

We opted for some rich foods to start. The chicken liver parfait was served with fruit chutney, pork jelly and brioche toast on a slate board, with a little greenery on the side. The parfait serving was very generous, and paired with the brioche the dish was a winner.


Orange scented duck pate

The orange scented duck pâté, served with sweet pecans and toast had the same intensity of flavour, but with a citrus twist. Adding nuts to a pâté isn’t something I’ve tried before, but along with the orange segments, there’s a real variety to the textures on offer.


Salmon and sprint onion fishcake

Next up came the salmon and spring onion fishcake, served on a bed of wilted spinach, underneath a poached egg and dill hollandaise sauce. A regal main, displaying a lovely combination of ideas. It kind of reminded me of a grown up eggs royale, it had the same wonderful taste but with subtler intonations. The side of chunky chips we ordered to accompany this perhaps reduced the maturity of the meal, but we’re eating here, not getting married so whatever.


Artichokes linguini

The artichoke linguini, served with tomato pesto, shallots and parmesan seeds, was also a well presented, interesting dish. The pasta was clearly well made, and super fresh. Combined with a well-crafted sauce, each forkful of linguini and artichoke was delicious. We also ordered some wilted spinach alongside this main, for a bit of extra greenery, and as with the fishcake, it did the job well.


Hot chocolate fondant

We finished off with the hot chocolate fondant, served with salted caramel ice cream and macarons. Salted caramel ice cream goes so well with chocolate, and with macarons on the side this really was an indulgent dessert.


Orange marmalade croissant pudding

The marmalade croissant pudding, served with a whisky sauce was just as indulgent, but more of a revelation. I’m a huge fan of a bread and butter pudding, especially when made at my parents’, but switching up to croissant, and adding in marmalade adds a ton of class, and makes for a much better experience.

Sadly we couldn’t leave via the helipad, but that didn’t leave a sour taste in our mouths. The Riverside Grill has the perfect location for Battersea’s future, but it also represents what’s so good about the area already. It’s got plenty of ideas, and hopefully they’ll continue to innovate in time for the towers of Battersea to rise again.

Riverside Grill

Crowne Plaza Battersea, Bridges Wharf, Battersea, London, SW11 3BE

About James Gray

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