Restaurant Review Round-up 25 March 2015

From revamped East London boozers to boundary-pushing veggie cuisine in Manchester, it was a mixed bag for the nation’s food critics this week. Check out what they loved (red wine-braised squid), and loathed (prawns mixed with chocolate).

Fay Maschler

The Culpeper Image source: The Evening Standard

The Culpeper
Image source: The Evening Standard

Awarded a whopper 4 stars by Fay Maschler, The Culpeper is an East London pub boasting a ‘magnificent’ redesign. Dover sole ‘[delivers] more than is expected of a fish’, red wine-braised squid is ‘dark, moody and humming’, and room saved for dessert ‘well rewarded’.

 

Grace Dent

Hood Image source: The Standard

Hood
Image source: The Standard

‘Pleasingly hectic’ Hood in Streatham hosts Grace Dent: an area of London that’s ‘clearly crying out’ for new openings. Though grilled mackerel ‘lacks clout’, pork belly with bubble & squeak was ‘delicious’.

 

Giles Coren

Bocconcino Image source: The Metropolist

Bocconcino
Image source: The Metropolist

Giles Coren doesn’t feel Bocconcino is a ‘bad’ restaurant, but he doesn’t feel it’s a ‘necessary’ one either.Deep-fried calamari was ‘on the chewy side’, while burrata arrived with ‘lovely braised aubergine and a neat little pesto’. Black tagliolini was ‘beautifully made’, and veal chop ‘delicious’, though ‘five quid a mouthful’.

 

Marina O’Loughlin

Kitty Fishers Image source: The Guardian

Kitty Fishers
Image source: The Guardian

It’s yet another Kitty Fisher’s venture, this week for Marina O’Loughlin of The Guardian. ‘Memorable’ duck is ‘blushing pink and oozing juice’, salt cod croquettes are ‘light, crisp and fluffy’, and beef ‘jolly fine’.

 

Jay Rayner

1847 Image source: The Guardian

1847
Image source: The Guardian

Jay Rayner heads to ‘excellent independent’ 1847 in Manchester, for a vegetarian lunch that at £25 for 3 courses is ‘good value’. ‘Compelling’ main courses include deep-fried halloumi, and rice with puy lentils and smoked tofu.

 

Zoe Williams

Wormwood Image source: The Guardian

Wormwood
Image source: The Guardian

It’s a thumbs down for Zoe Williams at Wormwood, with combinations like ‘chocolate [and] prawn reduction’ not managing to pull it off. A few after-thought recommendations include ‘blooming marvellous’ Allium Brasserie.

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