Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 8th January 2016

Though many of us are showing calorie restraint this January, it’s a different story for the nation’s food critics and bloggers. Top notch beef, London’s best courgette chips and journey-worthy langoustines are just some of the things they feasted on this week.

Jay Rayner



Jay Rayner finds ‘one of the most satisfying meals you can eat in London right now’ at Sartoria on Savile Row, courtesy of newly-appointed head chef Francesco Mazzei. Though it ‘costs’, he has zucchine fritte that are the ‘best… in London’, raw Black Angus beef that’s what ‘steak tartare wants to be when it grows up’, and a ‘boozy [cloud]’ zabaglione.

Marina O’Loughlin



Relatively new Stoke Newington opening Escocesa (N16) serves up a ‘fleecy comfort blanket of familiar dishes’, in a place that ‘looks fantastic’, says Marina O’Loughlin. The tortilla ‘tortilla is a model of its kind’, and the langoustines ‘alone make the trip worthwhile’.

Tom Parker Bowles


TGI Friday’s

Tom Parker Bowles heads to TGI Friday’s Leicester Square, where ‘staff are impeccable [and] prices decent’. It’s ‘all rather good fun’. Ribs are eaten ‘robotically, though not without delight’, and his frozen strawberry margarita is ‘respectable’, with ‘just the right amount of acid bite’.

Fay Maschler


Vico, image by

After recently doing away with its Italian fast food, pay-by-weight ethos, overhauled Vico gets 3 stars from the Evening Standard’s Fay Maschler. She tries a Puccia sandwich from Puglia with an ‘exhilarating filling’, rigatoni is ‘is everything you want a pasta dish on a cold night to be’, and the award-winning gelupo ‘should probably come on prescription in January’.

AA Gill

AA Gill heads to Lurra in London’s W1, where his accidental empty wallet is handled with ‘composure, easy kindness and good nature’. 4 stars for both atmosphere and food, including ‘a large swag of octopus tentacles’ that were ‘really, really delicious’, and prime rib from a 14-year-old milking cow that made ‘every other steak you’ve eaten this year seem like a waste of money’.

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating out recently:

About Emma Starkie

Originally from Cumbria, Emma is always on the lookout for exciting new places to eat in London. Topping Emma's rankings at present are Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, Foxlow and Galvin La Chapelle. In her spare time, Emma enjoys trawling old bookshops, baking, and losing at pub quizzes.

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