Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 4th December 2015

The onset of Christmas didn’t get in the way of the foodies this week, with French, Italian and barbecue joints all being put through their paces. They found ‘fair prices’, somewhere that’s ‘a bit special’, and eggs like ‘little mouthfuls of fart…’ Their words not ours.



Jay Rayner headed to Piquet in Fitzrovia, where he found ‘classic French food at fair prices’ and dishes that are ‘rich and serious’. Herdwick lamb is ‘ properly pink’, ‘[eye-widening]’ apple sorbet is ‘clean and smooth’, and squidgy almond cake ‘makes everything better’.



Canto Corvino, Katharine Anne Rose for The Guardian

Marina O’Loughlin head to Bernardi’s and Canto Corvino in London, both of which she finds are ‘properly grown-up’. Canto Corvino is ‘a bit special’, with its gnudi with blood sausage that’s her ‘favourite pasta dish of the year’, and a ‘fat slab of hake’ that’s ‘pearly, flaking luxury’. Though the food ‘is pleasing enough’ at Bernardi’s, the only dish that ‘hits the heights’ is gnocchi scented with tarragon. Orecchiette are ‘just odd’, and broccoli ‘overcooked’.



Though it’s been very much ‘admired’ by other critics, AA Gill scores the food at Shotgun just 1 star. This ‘yet another barbecue restaurant’ offered devilled quails’ eggs like ‘little mouthfuls of fart’, and ribs and Boston butt taste ‘[overwhelming of] creosote’ and are ‘like chewing a fireman’s glove’.


The Good Egg in Stoke Newington presents a ‘tantalising’ all-day menu according to Grace Dent. She orders ‘bold’ NYC trout and whitefish croquettes, and an ‘excellent’ chocolate mousse with ‘zinging’ fresh cardamom.

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating out recently:

About Chris Tilsed

After stints in Brighton and France, Chris returned to his native London and its restaurant scene. Bringing back a love of French cuisine, Brasserie Zédel and Bleeding Heart are amongst his current favourites. When he's not eating food or writing about it, Chris can usually be found playing or listening to music.

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