Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 28th October 2016

Giles Coren

The Hare

The Hare
Image source: The Times


After lengthy musings on hares and buzzards and other wildlife, Giles Coren eventually tells us about the food at the Hare in Milton-under-Wychwood, where ‘the cooking by a fellow called Matt Dare is exceptionally good.’ A starter of pan-fried chicken livers in cream and wholegrain mustard on toast is ‘exceptionally rich and rewarding,’ and panna cotta is ‘very good,’ but the star of the show is the daily changing fish board. Giles tucks into gravlax of Scottish salmon with roasted beetroot and horseradish crème fraîche, monkfish cheeks, crab linguine and a ‘quite stunningly good fillet of black bream.’

Grace Dent

Elystan Street

Elystan Street
Image source: Evening Standard


Grace Dent gives 5/5 to the food at Elystan Street, the new opening from Phil Howard. She is pleased to find that although ‘this is fiddly, pleased-with-itself cooking,’ it is ‘at the same time accessible.’ Smashed chocolate brownie with vanilla Chantilly ‘verges on pornographic,’ roast grouse on a celeriac-and-pear purée with pickled elderberries was, according to her companion, ‘the greatest grouse he’d ever eaten,’ and a a fillet of John Dory on crushed butternut squash is ‘oozy, smeary, plate-lickable cooking.’ and ‘custard tart thoughtfully resembles a Yorkshire pudding but has a smoky whiff of burnt nutmeg.’

Fay Maschler

The Laughing Heart

The Laughing Heart
Image source: Evening Standard


Fay Maschler is won over by The The Laughing Heart and its impressive wine stock. The food also pleases, with ‘immaculately cooked’ stone bass on the bone in a broth flavoured with Xaio Xing (rice wine) the star of the show. ‘Smooth chicken liver pâté in a stockade of thin slices of Williams pear and pieces of crisply fried chicken skin’ is a ‘delectable exposition of soft and crunchy,’ and

Jay Rayner

Foley's

Foley’s
Image source: The Guardian


Jay Rayner has mixed views on Foley’s where the food ‘can’t spell the word “subtle” let alone express it.’ ‘Individually each dish really does deliver a thrilling whack,’ with charcoal grilled chicken burnt ends and cauliflower on tzatziki both ‘striking.’ but the whole experience ‘starts to feel like being shouted at repeatedly by the kitchen.’

Marina O’Loughlin

Chick’n’Sours

Chick’n’Sours
mage source: Sophia Evans for the Guardian


Marina O’Loughlin labels the new Chick’n’Sours in Covent Garden ‘like KFC, only much better.’ This, she points out, is more than just fried chicken, it’s ‘fine cooking in its own right.’ ‘Forget subtlety,’ she says, ‘this is food that biffs and pows, makes you gasp and grin.’

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating out recently:

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