Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 19th May 2017

Grace Dent

Hand
Image source: Evening Standard

Hand in E20 is Grace Dent’s ‘dream destination for a day off’ on account of its ‘changeable feast of Palestinian, Greek and earthy British meze’. Formerly of E5 Bakehouse, Despina Siahuli serves up ‘excellent’ split lentil soups, spanakopita (‘fat twists of moist filo’), and Hill & Szrok pork sausage rolls that are ‘often the very first thing [she thinks] of on a Saturday morning’.

 

Marina O’Loughlin

Swan at The Globe

Swan at The Globe
Image source: The Guardian

Marina O’Loughlin heads to the recently refurbed Swan, where ‘critically acclaimed’ Allan Pickett is found at the helm. Pea & shallot tortellini is a ‘a hefty, satisfying bruiser’, while roast hake is ‘perfectly pearlescent and squeaky-fresh’ and rhubarb crumble tart ‘years more sophisticated than its humble billing’.

 

Jay Rayner

Radici

Radici
Image source: The Guardian

Radici in Islington is summed up by Jay Rayner as ‘rustic for city people… who don’t do countryside’, with the kitchen manned by Francesco Mazzei (whose cooking he finds ‘always right and always encouraging’). To ‘not order Mazzei’s zucchini fritti’ makes you an ‘idiot’, and his pick of the dessert menu is ‘a proper syrup-drenched rum baba flavoured with bergamot’. All plates ‘[go] back empty’.

 

John Walsh

Kiln

Kiln
Image source: The Times

Kiln in Soho is summed up as ‘small but exciting’ by John Walsh in The Times. Cooked without gas or electricity, Kiln serves up slow-grilled chicken thigh slicked with soy (that he ‘could have had several helpings of’), ‘richly meaty’ hogget skewers, and a short-rib Burmese curry ‘promised a cornucopia of flavours but didn’t quite deliver’.

Michael Deacon

The Game Bird

The Game Bird

Garnering glowing reviews from critics of late, The Game Bird gets 4 stars from Michael Deacon in The Telegraph. The signature roast pigeon (complete with a hip flask of slow gin for drizzling) is ‘plump, tender, slightly earthy’, while Dover sole is ‘soft and sleek and supple’, and pistachio soufflé with white chocolate ice cream was a ‘gorgeous, shivering collision between hot and cold’.

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating recently:

About Emma Starkie

Originally from Cumbria, Emma is always on the lookout for exciting new places to eat in London. Topping Emma's rankings at present are Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, Foxlow and Galvin La Chapelle. In her spare time, Emma enjoys trawling old bookshops, baking, and losing at pub quizzes.

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