Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 17th February 2017

Jay Rayner

The Salt Room Brighton

The Salt Room
Photograph: Karen Robinson for the Observer

Jay Rayner finds ‘extremely assured cooking’ at The Salt Room in Brighton. The fish & seafood-focused menu includes ‘detailed and clever’ starters of salmon and scallops, ‘sweet, pearly’ sea bass and a ‘taste of the pier’ dessert’. Despite this being an ‘exercise in whimsy’, it’s nonetheless ‘a masterclass in technique’.

Marina O’Loughlin

Vasco & Piero's

Vasco & Piero’s
Photograph: Sophia Evans for the Guardian

‘Soho old-timer’ Vasco & Piero’s is found ‘still rammed, service after service’ by Marina O’Loughlin. ‘Service’, ‘style’, ‘generosity’ and ‘produce are the secrets to their success, and praised dishes include ‘marshmallow-light’ Umbrian burrata,  ‘yolk-yellow’ tagliatelle and ‘flawless’ Toblerone semifreddo.

Fay Maschler

La Dame De Pic

La Dame De Pic
Image source: Evening Standard

Fay Maschler notes that the cheapest main course at La Dame De Pic is mackerel at £32, demonstrating its ‘level of ambition’. Venison and foie gras pithiviers are ‘skilfully made’, salad is ‘perfectly dressed’ and the jasmine & vanilla millefeuille is ‘an admirably pure architectural construct’. Staff are ‘warm and welcoming’, and the sommelier, Jan Konetzki, the ‘star’.

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating recently:

It’s official @theospizzaldn does THE BEST #glutenfree pizza in London. Maybe even the world!

A post shared by Emma (@emmogremmo) on

Classic Bao. 經典滷肉刈包. — Introducing @bao_london to someone who never touched upon Taiwanese food. Gua bao or ambiguously known as bao, is a Taiwanese snack food. True Taiwanese pork belly baos have five defining components: the fluffy steamed bun, tender braised pork belly, pickled mustard greens, fresh coriander and powdered peanuts. All combined, it’s a messy, colorful, glorious snack of salty, sweet, pungent, and fresh flavors, with multiple textures to boot. Despite it being 3 times the size smaller than the true bao, it does taste like home. . . . . . #baolondon #刈包 #londoneats #feedfeed #potd #hkig #ukig #ivyeatsagain #foodfan #foodgram #foodgasm #lefooding #foodporn #foodlove #ukfoodie #foodblogger #instafood #toplondonrestaurants #topcitybites #f52grams #huffposttaste #forkyeah #eeeeeats #eatfamous #foodie #f4f #l4l A post shared by Ivy (@ivyeatsagain) on

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

* Please enter your comment

* Please enter your name