Chicken, beef, and cheese & pineapple on sticks were the main-focus foodstuffs for the critics this week. Find out what they loved (a lot) and what they loathed (not much) from this week’s mealtime musings.
The Young British Foodies have a ‘talent for star-spotting’ according to Marina O’Loughlin, and their 2015 Best Chef winner Adam Rawson, of Pachamama, serves up a lunch that has them exclaiming ‘Wow. Oh wow’. Brown crab and yucca churros are ‘so gorgeous [she orders] them on both visits’, caramelised aubergine and fried plantain in a ‘mulch’ of black olive and feta leave O’Loughlin’s veggie friend ‘blissed out’.
Tom Parker Bowles
Tom Parker Bowles finds Sartoria on suit-laden Savile Row ‘a perfect fit’. Though the dining room ‘won’t win any design awards’ is filled with the ‘hum and hubbub of very happy eaters’, where he feasts on ‘soft and blushingly seductive’ scallops, ‘great, fat’ tortelli pillows and ‘magnificent’ ice cream.
‘Posh chicken shop’ Reys is a brand-new pilot site in Cambridge, visited by Tracey Macleod. Despite ‘[messing] up’ avocado on toast and serving a ‘nightmare’ barbecue sauce, the mainstay, chicken, is ‘tender and full-flavoured, the skin crisp’. Gravy is ‘the real deal’ and Asian slaw ‘decent’.
Jay Rayner ‘[gets] lunch the way the Sahara gets sun’ at Zelman Meats in Soho: the eponymously-named restaurant from Misha Zelman (the man behind Goodman and Burger & Lobster). Beef is ‘the pink of a taffeta ballgown’, triple-cooked chips with parmesan and truffle ‘are worth the £8 price tag’, and the one dessert is a ‘doozy’: a ‘proper slab’ of apple pie.
Hotly-anticipated 70s-themed restaurant Coin Laundry is ‘cheapish and definitely cheerful’, according to Grace Dent. As well as pinball tables, board games and complimentary chewing gum, Coin Laundry serves up ‘jolly decent garlic-stuffed Kievs’, moreish cheese (‘breaded and deep-fried’) & pineapple (in subtle jelly form) on sticks, and ‘excellent’ Black Forest trifle.
— Emma Rose Tully (@EmmaTully) January 10, 2016
— TheFoodaholic (@garyjberry) January 8, 2016
— Sharky (@Shark4ChipDrink) January 14, 2016
— London-Unattached (@Lon_Unattached) January 13, 2016