Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 14th November 2016

Kathryn Flett



Kathryn Flett visits Veeraswamy, which turned 90 in 2016. She finds ‘tried-and-tested, confidently delivered Indian cooking that will please most of the punters most of the time.’

Marina O’Loughlin


Farmacy restaurant. Photograph: Karen Robinson for the Guardian

Marina O’Loughlin is not a fan of the clean eating trend, and consequently not a fan of Farmacy. Despite finding a ‘beautiful restaurant’ and ‘lovely staff,’ ‘flavours are muddy, textures claggy, thrills few and far between.’

Fay Maschler


Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures for Evening Standard

Fay Maschler concludes that she’s not the target customer for Street XO, a new venture from renowned Spanish chef David Muñoz. Creative dishes are creatively compared to ‘Jackson Pollock roadkill disposed on a sheet of white paper inspired perhaps by the style of Grant Achatz at Chicago’s Alinea, or meaty stuff likened to cooked catfood.’

Jay Rayner


Photograph: Sophia Evans for the Observer

Jay Rayner likes the Italian charm of Margot in Covent Garden, although not the price. ‘Exceptionally good bread’ joins a selection of cured meats to start, followed by impressive pasta dishes and a ‘glorious’ lemon delice to finish.

Grace Dent


Image source: Evening Standard

Grace Dent describes Yosma as ‘a half-decent nightclub currently being spoiled by ovens.’ Although dishes are ‘executed beautifully,’ she senses ‘a capable kitchen crew being held back from serving bold, lascivious, love-hewn food by budgets and holding out for the sort of diner who’ll be too smashed to notice.’

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating recently:

About Chris Tilsed

After stints in Brighton and France, Chris returned to his native London and its restaurant scene. Bringing back a love of French cuisine, Brasserie Zédel and Bleeding Heart are amongst his current favourites. When he's not eating food or writing about it, Chris can usually be found playing or listening to music.

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