Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 10th October 2016

Fay Maschler

Elystan Street

Elystan Street
Image source: Evening Standard

Fay Maschler finds a ‘mutable, versatile, buzzing’ menu at Elystan Street, the new restaurant from Phil Howard. The food earns 4 stars, with roast grouse with pickled elderberries and celeriac and pear purée hailed as ‘the best restaurant grouse [she has] encountered.’

Jay Rayner

Gino D’Acampo - My Restaurant

Gino D’Acampo – My Restaurant
Image source: Sophia Evans for the Observer

Jay Rayner isn’t overly impressed with My Restaurant from Gino D’Acampo. Although ‘the best espresso at Euston station is almost certainly served here,’ he also finds ‘the silliest presentation of a dish [he’s] come across in a long while,’ and everything ‘seems to be trying to make up its mind whether to be awful or just plain odd.’

Marina O’Loughlin

'O Ver

‘O Ver
Image source: Andy Hall for the Guardian

Marina O’Loughlin heads to ‘O Ver in London Bridge, a new restaurant specialising in Napolitan food. Desserts are ‘glorious,’ but the star of the show is the pizza which is ‘up there with the best.’ Made using seawater, the crust is ‘as pillowy as marshmallow,’ and topped with smoked mozzarella, pancetta and ‘lip-tingling’ chilli oil.

Grace Dent


Image source: Evening Standard

Grace Dent enjoys Clipstone, from the people behind Portland. The French-Japanese fusion impresses – hispi cabbage with elderberry and aubergine ‘sounds like a crime against humanity, but is in fact sharply joyous,’ whilst desserts feature ‘the best Paris-Brest in London.’

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating recently:

About Chris Tilsed

After stints in Brighton and France, Chris returned to his native London and its restaurant scene. Bringing back a love of French cuisine, Brasserie Zédel and Bleeding Heart are amongst his current favourites. When he’s not eating food or writing about it, Chris can usually be found playing or listening to music.

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