Critic & Blogger Review Roundup 10th June 2016

Giles Coren


Image source: Morito

Giles Coren heads to little sister of the acclaimed Moro, Morito, on Hackney Road, where he finds ‘unquestionably the restaurant for the summer of 2016’. The cooking, service and space scores 8s and 9 out of 10, and he enjoys ‘unbelievable… pure heaven’ bottarga, ‘delicious’ stewed squid, and the ‘highlight’: kid with lemon and harissa, and ‘[dazzlingly crisp]’ chips.

Marina O’Loughlin


Image source: The Guardian

Marina O’Loughlin is full of praise for the Bristol restaurant scene, and heads to Bulrush. Asparagus with elderflower hollandaise is ‘thrilling’, home-smoked taramasalata she’d ‘happily eat by the fistful’, and the scallop dish is ‘[knock] out’. Though there is the ‘odd misstep’, ‘the good stuff is so good, it more than cancels them out’.

Tom Parker Bowles

Six Portland Road

Six Portland Road
Image source: Daily Mail

Tom Parker Bowles awards 4 stars to Six Portland Road in Holland Park: a ‘small, unpretentious restaurant that knows all about… hospitality’. The scallop special showcases ‘intelligent cooking’, and boudin noir is ‘like a glorious pork hash…ridiculously rich and silken’. He scores it 4 stars overall.

Fay Maschler

Legs Hackney

Image source: Evening Standard

The ‘welcome is warm’ and the ‘system is simple’ at Legs in Hackney Walk, says Fay Maschler. Lardo Gombitelli ‘caresses, deliquesces, faints with pleasure on the tongue’, fried potatoes with crème fraîche and trout roe is ‘disarming’, and onglet is ‘outstanding’.

Michael Deacon


Hartwell House, Mark Whitfield for The Telegraph

Michael Deacon visits Hartwell House: a Buckinghamshire stately home. Though it’s an ‘impressive-looking place’, the food doesn’t match the surroundings, with 2 stars awarded for the likes of ‘curiously Quornish’ chicken and pigeon sausage and ‘lethargic and bland’ venison. In contrast, a cherry & vanilla crème brûlée was hailed as ‘very nice’.

Where some of our favourite bloggers have been eating out recently:

About Emma Starkie

Originally from Cumbria, Emma is always on the lookout for exciting new places to eat in London. Topping Emma's rankings at present are Jamie Oliver's Fifteen, Foxlow and Galvin La Chapelle. In her spare time, Emma enjoys trawling old bookshops, baking, and losing at pub quizzes.

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